The latest innovations in digital textile print reduce the footprint of the factory for technology and also reduce (if not eliminate altogether) the requirement for ancillary machines. This simplification is facilitated by wet-on-wet print. WhatTheyThink contributor Debbie McKeegan dives into one-step wet-onwet textile printing solutions.
The industry continues to rationalize the print process with each new iteration. This leads to a streamlined, unified solution that is a one-step solution.
Recent developments have reduced the size of the factory for technology and also the need for ancillary equipment (if not eliminated altogether). The main contributor to this simplification is wet-on-wet print.
Typically, in digital textile printing, the ink is printed onto a pre-coated fabric—this is known as wet-on-dry printing. Wet-on-wet—a term carried over from rotary textile printing—is a technique used in the digital textile industry to apply ink or dye onto fabric in a continuous process.
This method allows for better color blending and ink penetration because the fabric remains moist and pre-coated throughout the entire printing process. This method is also called direct-to fabric printing because it allows the ink to be directly applied onto the textile without needing any extra steps, such as post-treatment or pre-treatment.
In a global printed textile market—analog and digital—that is predicted to exceed $260 billion by 2025 (Grand View Research), pigment printing, at 57% of the total, is the largest individual ink component, overshadowing any other ink type, be it acid, reactive, disperse, or dye sublimation.
You might ask: why this figure—57%—is not reflected in digital textile printing sector?
In 2022 the digital sublimation segment dominated the market. By 2030, it is expected that its share will increase to over 53%. (Research&Markets) The adoption of digital pigments has historically been slowed by issues with color vibrancy and fastness, and technical challenges with speed. Recent technical innovations and pigment applications may improve these numbers in the short-term.
The digital printing of non-coated fabrics using a single-step process is a top priority for many machine manufacturers and could well be the catalyst to increasing adoption.
JK Inks has made significant progress in the sector recently, offering 4k Pigment Inks that offer excellent wash and rub resistance, along with good lightfastness. The inks can only be used with Kyocera head printers. All tests have been done on cotton, not other fibers or blends.
The formulation of inks is not enough to solve the problem. While wet-onwet can simplify the workflow and print process, its technical implementation is not simple. It presents an industry challenge that machine engineers and chemists must overcome. It’s from the heart of these elusive R&D departments that the latest innovations will emerge. To be continued…
Kornit Digital were the pioneers of wet-onwet technology, whether they are printing direct to garment or directly onto fabric. Their launch of the Presto system in 2019, marked a major shift for their technology. It continues to improve with impressive results.
“When we first unveiled our industry-leading Presto MAX in 2021, the intent was to change the world of fashion and textiles forever, tapping into the power of on-demand digital decoration to set new standards for sustainability and creative fulfilment,” said Ronen Samuel, CEO at Kornit Digital. “We’re proud to highlight how Kornit anticipates the needs of an industry facing new opportunities sparked by digital transformation, while addressing mandates to cut waste and overproduction. Continuous innovation across our production systems, as well as supporting automation technologies, software, and partnerships, ensure customers achieve the highest possible return on investment, receive best-in-class support for their operational and business needs, and prepare to capitalize on trends shaping fashion and textiles for years to come.”
Kornit’s work has been protected over the years. A large percentage of their 130+ Patents are related to wet-onwet processing, such as chemical compositions and methods, or printing systems.
The digital wet on wet process is a game changer for the pigment printing sector. The digital technology industry has seen a number of market changes that have shifted the focus to on demand production. In order to achieve this, the technology has to move beyond rotary to create a seamless infrastructure that supports textile industries of different scales.
The global printed textile market is huge and has a rich history. It’s also a market that must adapt if it is to meet its environmental responsibilities and obligations—and it’s primed for disruption.
In 2023, many new innovations will be introduced in the pigment market: Optimum Digital (Kyocera), MS Printing Solutions (D.Gen), Aleph (Atexco), and EFI Reggiani all have invested in one step technology.
Kyocera’s FOREARTH digital fabric printer, which was recently introduced, uses a continuous-cycle discharge to disperse their proprietary blend of pigment inks, pretreatment liquids, and finishing agents in one pass. This system can print on a variety of fabrics, including cotton, silk polyester, nylon and blended fabrics.
EFI Reggiani ecoTERRA also offers a water-based pigment solution that is all-in one and does not require ancillary pre- and after-treatment equipment. EFI Reggiani’s ecoTERRA offers a soft, tactile feel and improved fabric quality thanks to its polymerization and finish unit.
The Lario Compact is currently in development at MS Printing Solutions. It uses nine printheads: two for pretreatment, six color and one binder. This allows the machine to achieve a speed of 75 meters per second in a single run.
All of this has led to the conclusion that digital pigment printing will be able to move from its discontinuous process, to a method more similar to its rotary competitors, where fabric is printed, softened and cured in a single step. The final product is then ready to cut and sew.
It is possible to see a future, as print technology advances, where pigment printing will be more prevalent, with its benefits of multi-fiber printing and blend printing. This sector, which is currently dominated primarily by dye sublimation, and reactive printing, could reach new heights in adoption.