A version of this article ran in the December issue of Bicycle Retailer & Industry News.
HILDEBRAN, N.C. (BRAIN) — DeFeet founder Shane Cooper fondly remembers when the brand’s socks were “the currency of the trade shows” in the 1990s as industry types would trade them among themselves.
It was back in the days when DeFeet was a unique custom cycling sock manufacturer and before China entered into the production scene with lower prices. Cooper’s insistent manufacturing in the country was not understood by many in the industry. His vision was to create “microsockery”, true to his core principles of sustainability and performance.
DeFeet celebrated its 30th birthday in November. The company’s entire poly, nylon and lycra supply comes from within an 80-mile radius. DeFeet also uses Repreve, a recycled performance fiber. Cooper was excited to tell BRAIN that the brand has been awarded Responsible Wool Standard certification. This voluntary designation addresses the welfare of sheep as well as the land on which they graze. DeFeet sources its wool from Shaniko Farms of Oregon.
“The wool is then sent to South Carolina for washing, then it travels to Valdese (North Carolina) to be dyed. It then returns to South Carolina for spinning into yarn. RWS will certify our entire wool supply chain, starting at the ranch and ending at the consumer. This industry-first certification is unprecedented.
DeFeet purchased wool from New Zealand fifteen years ago and sent it to China for washing, dyeing, and to Canada for spinning.
DeFeet continues to set the industry standard in sustainability. However, DeFeet is also determined to create a performance sock. DeFeet offers small-batch custom options that are branded with customers’ logos.
Cooper stated that “domestic manufacturing” was something that he liked. He said this from his office in Asheville, which is about an hour away.
The birth of the Aireator
Cooper explained that DeFeet was the one who created the Aireator. He switched the nylon to the exterior for strength and durability, while keeping the CoolMax soft fibres against his foot. “The inside was soft and allowed for the foot’s sweat to escape. We also designed the Aireator mesh weave, which allows the vapor to escape. It was similar to a cycling shoe. These tiny vents allow for vapor to escape, which would cause your foot to sweat. This was our secret recipe, and everyone loved it.
Nearly all of DeFeet’s products are made in its factory covering 50,000 square feet. DeFeet’s most important product is the sock. Johan Museeuw from Belgium won the road championship wearing DeFeet socks in 1996.
Cooper stated, “We were with Team Quickstep. We were in the Tour de France.” “So many events were taking place at this pinnacle. We had athletes who were able to test out our products. The yarn companies instantly loved us, as we were small and agile and they could use our new yarns to test them on the athletes. It was an amazing thing to have our manufacturing in the United States and be instantly respected.
Cooper indicated that DeFeet also has relationships beyond cycling, including golf, motorcycle, and equestrian. “They are fit people, and they want a socks that will perform.”
QBP and HLC are DeFeet distributors, and the brand manufactures socks for approximately 50 private-label businesses. However, the portal also offers direct access to dealers with no minimums. Cooper is working to spread the word about its 300 strong direct IBD network. Custom orders for events or small teams account for half of Cooper’s business.
It’s more than a custom sock. It’s made with our technology and is a custom sock. I believe IBDs will be able to get it. Our footprint is as small and compact as possible. It’s responsible. It’s responsible. If I work in a bike shop, and I place socks near the shoes, I tell people that they can try on new socks. That product will make me a 50%-60% profit.
Like a lot of the industry, DeFeet has had to raise prices — 20% last year — partly in response to supplier costs increasing and raising pay during the pandemic to retain its workforce, which numbers 35, Cooper said. Cooper said that the brand’s production was slowed recently due to lower third-quarter demand. DeFeet’s consumer website, which he said was “a saver”, with 25% of direct-to consumers sales.
“We need our bicycle shops to survive, and thrive, and with all the consolidation going on, I’d love to see that independent man stand up.” We are a small business, just like them.
DeFeet sales increased by 12% during the pandemic and dropped by 2% in 2021. DeFeet announced that it has entered into a multiyear partnership with Trek Factory Racing to outfit its cyclocross- and cross-country teams.
Cooper smiled and said that “the great thing about a bicycle sock” is that even in bad times, you can still buy new handlebar tape, new socks and go riding.
A brand can also be transformed by a new machine. Cooper purchased a direct printer for garments in 2019, which allows for greater customization and more detail than knitting. DeFeet was able to create PrintMySock portal that allows customers to design one pair of DeFeet socks.
Cooper stated, “The knitting technology in itself is amazing, but the printing technology is time-consuming.”
Performance is what you chase
DeFeet doesn’t just care about technology, but also sustainability. Cooper continues to chase the carrot of proven performance. DeFeet thought it was over sponsoring the Tour de France and World Cup teams when a different company took over its 20-plus year Quickstep partnership. Lotto-Soudal called 2020, saying it had tested the DeFeet aireator socks in a London wind tunnel. They wanted to continue working with the brand.
DeFeet had previously been able to show in its own wind-tunnel test with Quickstep, that its socks save 8 watts. That’s 4 watts more then the popular cut and sewn aerosocks in England.
Cooper stated that a Dutch company suddenly claimed to have saved 12 watts by using their socks. I called BS because they claimed to have used a mannequin in the wind tunnel testing, but they didn’t use yaw. (Yaw refers to the vertical Z axis that positions the rider in relation to the wind. We used a real rider, and we got 8 watts. So, we are now going back to the wind tunnel. Based on what we learned in 2018 as well as what we have learned with Lotto-Soudal since then, we are working again to make the world’s fastest socks. We hope to achieve that at the Tour de France in 2019.
Cooper smiles when he thinks back to the past 30 year and says he’s satisfied with DeFeet achievements. These include sustainability, performance enhancements and even survival of a fire that decimated the company’s headquarters in 2001, which stopped production for nine months.
Cooper said, “Fortunately my wife Hope (Hope) has a great financial acumen.” “Don’t give me money — I can make it, but she knows how to save it — and luckily 30 years later, we’re still in business.”